Hi, my name is Maggan. Welcome to Maggan’s kitchen!
H and I ate at the Flower City early this week. The soup of that day was tom yam. It was the modified version of the Thai recipe but the best soup they had had since we started frequenting the place 1.5 years ago. It reminded me of Nids’ home-cooked sinigang. Sour soup.
Sinigang is a clear soup dish where sour fruits are used for flavouring. Tamarind, guava, or kamias. Kamias (scientific name: averrhoa bilimbi) is related to carambola or star fruit, and bilimbi. Very, very, very sour. Sour to the max. Pure sourness. Sinigang can be made with meat (pork or beef cuts with bones), fish, or shrimps. Very flexible recipe.
Ingredients: 300-500 grams meat cuts with bones (bones make good broth). 1-2 pieces tomatoes, quartered. 1 large onion or 2 medium onions sliced. 1 white radish peeled and sliced at about 2 centimetres thick. 1 bouquet of kangkong (scientific name: ipomoea aquatica), also known as water spinach. 1/2 cube meat bouillon (optional). 1 piece of lemon grass chopped. 1-2 pieces green chilli pepper (3 pieces would give more hot than sour taste; we want the right balance), or 1 piece piri-piri pricked or halved. About 1 litre water (ideally, water from the third wash of rice is used). Fresh tamarind fruit.
I find measurement a dilemma in Philippine cooking, unless I follow a recipe book. Nids is one of the best in home cooking. She never uses measuring gadgets. She learned to cook this way. I learned to cook Filipino food from her in the same way. Measurement is done by taste. If Nids feels that the sinigang is sour enough, that’s it. If you notice the ingredients list, the amounts are all but guess approximations. Not scientific at all. I’m trying to be on the safe side. Not too much water, not too much meat.
But when it comes to the fresh tamarinds, they cannot be too much. The sourer, the better. The worst sinigang is one that lacks in sourness. You get dishwater for soup. Phooey! So how much fresh tamarind, the small to medium kind and unripe? Let me think. 2-3 handfuls. No. 3-4. Make those 3-5 handfuls. Yes, 3-5. Complicated.
White radish. No problem. Nids just peels and slices it.
When the meat has become tender, Nids adds in the radish and the tamarind puree. Radish takes longer to cook than the kangkong so it goes first. When the radish is cooked, the kangkong is added. The leaves go on top of the soup. As soon as they are added in, she puts the lid on the casserole and switches off the stove. The steam in the casserole will cook the kangkong.
Some notes.
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Stressed cooks can skip fresh tamarind and pureeing. They can get tamarind bouillon and just add it in plain water.
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Instead of meat, sinigang can be made with fresh shrimps (whole raw shrimps with heads, shells, and tails) or fresh water fish (milkfish or tilapia with head and tail minus scales).
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If using shrimps, bring to boil the tomatoes, onions, radish, and the puree first. When the mixture has boiled, add the raw shrimps and the kangkong. The sinigang is done when the shrimps have turned red-orange. Serve immediately.
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If using fish, season it first with a little salt on both sides. Boil the tomatoes, onions, radish, and the puree. Add the fish. When the fish is cooked, add the kangkong. Serve immediately.
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Omit the meat and voila! You have plain vegetable sinigang.
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If the sinigang is not sour enough, squeeze a piece or two of calamansi (scientific name: x Citrofortunella microcarpa; x is hybrid, I guess), also known as calamondin. I’m not sure if lemon will work. Lemon is mild. Lime is even milder.
Do I dare make sinigang, the Philippine sour soup? Are you kidding? I doubt it. Well, probably. In the right place and at the right time.
Suddenly, I noticed H making faces at me. I thought I heard someone say H-E-L-L-O. It was H trying to make contact with me. H succeeded to win me out of my little world. I snapped back to reality.